Argentina
Tango, Malbec, Patagonian ice fields, and steak cooked the way it was meant to beA Country That Operates on Its Own Terms — and the Better For It
Argentina is enormous — the eighth largest country in the world — and it doesn’t do anything small. The steak portions are massive, the Malbec pours are generous, the Buenos Aires neighbourhoods go on for miles, and Patagonia at the bottom of the continent is genuinely one of the most dramatic landscapes on earth. The country runs at its own pace and on its own logic, particularly when it comes to currency, economics, and dinner times (nobody eats before 9pm; restaurants don’t really get going until 10). Once you adjust, it’s extraordinarily rewarding.
Argentina rewards long trips. A week gives you Buenos Aires properly, but it barely scratches the surface of a country that encompasses subtropical jungles in the north (Iguazú Falls), wine country in Mendoza at the foot of the Andes, and the wild southern wilderness of Patagonia where Torres del Paine and Perito Moreno glacier sit within a few days’ drive of each other. Budget 3-4 weeks if you want to see more than one region. The domestic flight network (Aerolíneas Argentinas, JetSmart) makes connecting regions far more practical than overland options.
Argentina Weather Month by Month
Note: Argentina is in the Southern Hemisphere — seasons are reversed. Data below reflects Buenos Aires averages.
| Month | Temp °C / °F | Conditions (Buenos Aires) | Rating |
|---|---|---|---|
| January | 24°C / 75°F | Hot summer, humid, beach season | Mixed |
| February | 24°C / 75°F | Hot and humid, Carnival festivities | Mixed |
| March | 21°C / 70°F | Warm, harvest season in Mendoza | Best |
| April | 17°C / 63°F | Autumn colours, pleasant and mild | Best |
| May | 13°C / 55°F | Cooling down, fewer tourists | Good |
| June | 9°C / 48°F | Cool winter, Patagonia rainy season | Mixed |
| July | 9°C / 48°F | Winter, ski season in Bariloche | Mixed |
| August | 10°C / 50°F | Cold, whale watching begins in Valdés | Mixed |
| September | 14°C / 57°F | Spring starts, wildflowers in Patagonia | Good |
| October | 17°C / 63°F | Perfect spring, ideal for trekking | Best |
| November | 20°C / 68°F | Warm, long days, great for Patagonia | Best |
| December | 23°C / 73°F | Early summer, peak Patagonia season | Best |
6 Things You Have to Do in Argentina
Watch Perito Moreno Glacier Calve
The Perito Moreno glacier in Los Glaciares National Park near El Calafate is one of the few glaciers in the world that isn’t retreating — it’s actively advancing. Walkways built along the cliff face opposite the glacier let you watch refrigerator-sized blocks of ice collapse into the turquoise lake below with a sound like cannon fire. Few experiences in travel are as viscerally dramatic.
Eat a Full Asado
Argentine asado is a social ritual as much as a meal. A proper Sunday asado at a Buenos Aires home or estancia starts at midday, involves enormous quantities of beef (bife de chorizo, asado de tira, vacío), empanadas, chimichurri, Malbec, and lasts until dinner. If you can get invited to one, accept immediately and cancel whatever you had planned.
Watch a Tango Show in San Telmo
Buenos Aires invented tango and San Telmo — the oldest and most characterful neighbourhood — is where it’s still performed authentically. Skip the overpriced tourist milongas in Recoleta and find a show at a neighbourhood milonga in San Telmo or Boedo where locals actually dance. The real tango is improvised, subtle, and nothing like the stage version.
Trek in Torres del Paine
The W Trek in Chilean Patagonia (just over the border from El Calafate) is one of South America’s great hikes — four to five days through dramatic terrain: granite towers, turquoise lakes, hanging glaciers, and wind so strong it can stop you walking. Book refugio beds at least 6 months ahead for November–January. The alternative “O Circuit” adds two more days and sees far fewer people.
Visit Iguazú Falls
The Iguazú Falls on the border between Argentina and Brazil are the widest waterfall system on earth — 275 individual falls spanning nearly 3km. The Argentine side gives you more trails and viewing platforms; the Brazilian side gives you the panoramic view. Both are included in most tour packages from Buenos Aires. The Devil’s Throat (Garganta del Diablo) on the Argentine side is one of the most overwhelming natural spectacles on the planet.
Wine Tasting in Mendoza
Mendoza sits at the foot of the Andes at over 700m altitude, which gives its Malbec a depth and complexity that’s different from anything produced at sea level. The Luján de Cuyo and Valle de Uco regions have the finest estates. Cycle between wineries on a hired bike, stop for a long lunch at an estancia, and understand why Argentine Malbec has taken the world by storm in the last 20 years.
Travel Guides for Argentina
5 Travel Tips for Argentina
Understand the Currency Situation
Argentina has historically maintained multiple exchange rates simultaneously. The official rate and the informal “blue dollar” rate can differ substantially. Most travellers use Wise or a similar service to transfer money to a local account at the best available rate. Research the current situation thoroughly before you go, as conditions change frequently. Paying in USD cash at the informal rate has been common practice but carries its own risks.
Embrace Argentine Mealtimes
Lunch runs from 1-3pm and dinner from 9pm-midnight, with midnight genuinely being a normal time to sit down for a full meal in Buenos Aires. Restaurants before 9pm are empty and feel awkward for it. If you’re hungry at 7pm, eat at a confitería (cafe) for medialunas (Argentine croissants) and coffee. Trying to eat on your home schedule in Argentina will make you miss out on the best parts of the food culture.
Book Patagonia Accommodation a Long Way Ahead
The refugios inside Torres del Paine and the hotels near Perito Moreno glacier fill up 6-9 months ahead for the November–February peak season. If you want to do the W Trek or the O Circuit during prime time, booking accommodation needs to be the first thing you do after deciding to go to Argentina. El Calafate hotels are also in high demand during this period.
Take Domestic Flights, Not Buses, for Long Distances
Argentina is vast — Buenos Aires to El Calafate is a 3-hour flight or a 30+ hour bus journey. The domestic flight network is extensive and cheap if booked ahead; JetSmart and Aerolíneas Argentinas both offer promotional fares. The famous Ruta 40 overland is a classic journey for those with weeks to spare, but it’s not a time-efficient way to travel between major destinations.
Pack for Wind in Patagonia
Patagonian wind is extraordinary — not metaphorically, but literally. Gusts of 100+ km/h are common in summer. A windproof outer layer is essential even on warm sunny days. The wind reverses direction multiple times a day, so check forecasts hourly rather than planning around the morning weather. Trekking poles are also strongly recommended for the exposed ridgeline sections of the major trails.